The Ultimate HONDA CB750K2 webpages: Technical
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Reference

US K2 Wiring Diagram
(By the way: the only thing different for the European models I have foud so far is the extra light switch on the left side of the handlebar. It provides the (+) (black wire) to the central contact of the right-hand switch. I have never understood it's fuction)
Oil Flow CB750's
Click here to see the maintenance manual pages of the lubrication system
 
 

 
 
Simpified Honda SOHC4 Wiring
If you have absolutely no understanding of the electrics of you CB, print this document and follow the wires. It will give you a clue on how it goes. If you do not understand this diagram, stop working on you electrics and get someone to help you!

Dimensions
Dimensions of the K-K2 series. Mind that the rear fender you see on this bike costs around $250 today (dec 98).
Exploded View K2 (and Lower) engine
You can determine the fact that it's a K2 engine by the final drive shaft OIL GUIDE.

Transparant engine
This picture should help you understand how the engine crancks, how the oil flows, how it starts, etcetra.
Bonus: An article from Hot Bike Magazine (9-3-71) on porting a CB750 head.

My experiences with zinc plating small parts.

 US Wiring diagrams: K7 K8F2 F3

Johnny Verhoeven's SOHC/4 FAQ Page.

Tip on repalcing the seals of your frontforks: In 1973 the type of front fork changed <.......>, but I think you know that. If you're not sure, check if you really have the circlip above the seal. If yes: old type. Tip: I used an old pliers which I ginded down to remove the circlip. Don't make it too thin and too hot, or it's lost. Another tip: Replace the seal as soon as you can. Broken seals damage your inner chromed tube, it makes scratches first. Later a whole spot will appear where the chrome is gone, and with it the hard-ness. I have replaced the seals on a K7 last weekend, and the 'leaking tube' was gone! Luckyly not MY bike..... Also: use the old seal to get the new one in. I don't have the special tool. The new seal doen't have to go to the bottom. Another one: don't use the 6" trick on the old forks. If you do it you will have around 50ccs to many.... Last but not least: If you remove the lower parts of the fork, clean them! There will be a deposit on the inside. With your experience I don't have to tell you how.... Very last: You will find it funny to remove the seals from the forks: When you have removed the wheel, fender and brake parts, and have removed the oil from the tubes, you can remove the circlip. Since the circlip prevents the seal from being pushed out, you can remove it by pushing the lower fork part up (removed the spring offcourse), and then pull it down with some speed and force. Every tick will 'hammer' the old seal out a bit. Extremely last: Allways replace the seals in a pair.
Owner Rene van Maanen
Creation date November 1st 1998